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The days were gorgeous in Málaga – 24°, sun high in a cloudlesss sky. It was early March and the pathways lining the beaches were busy with walkers, skaters, and cyclists; the beachside restaurants were filled. This was Andalusia in southern Spain, just one week before the state of emergency was declared and the country shut down. Here's what I saw on one of those days – around the city, along the water, at the market, and having lunch at the Gran Hotel Miramar – with little indication of what was to come.